I left my heart in Pienza

Good morning from foggy Cortona town!


We had a bit of rain last night, the first since our arrivals here, and things do seem a bit more gray. That's ok though. Too many green pastures around this place. :) I do suppose that helps turn my attention away from the view and back to the art history paper that I am needing to write. But I'll blog for now... anything to keep the real work at bay.

This weekend we were herded once again on a bus and ended up in Pienza, the first of our three stops. Ahh, Pienza. I do believe that I left a little piece of my heart there. If I thought Cortona was small, Pienza is tiny! But you need a brief art history lesson I do believe: Pope Pius II was born here, so when he became pope, he brought his sentimental self back to revamp his hometown. The Renaissance ideal city was just creeping onto the scene, so Pius jumped at the chance to demolish, and then build up Pienza. Instead of two piazzas in medieval towns (like Volterra and Cortona) Pienza has one with both religious and secular buildings surrounded the square. A perfect blend of church and state you might say. His new church, though, is fara from perfect. Determined to build it around this main piazza, the church juts out of the hillside, and its foundations are a little less stable than I'm comfortable with. Infact, the church is slowly splitting in two, despite recent attempts to fix a foundation that never should have been. Anyway, back to Pius.

A main street runs from one end of the city to the other you are supposed to be able to stand in the middle and see out both ends. Finally, all the little alleyways are designed to be straight so that as you walk by, you can see the rolling Tuscan landscape below with no defense wall or buildings blocking your view. A marvelous idea. Beautifully designed. But Pius died, and no one else cared enough to carry out his dreams of Renaissance ideal in this dot on the map town. So today it stands, half medival, half Renaissance. Some streets are straight and look out to the valley below, and some twist and turn and you think you'll never see the light of day again. It's wonderfully unique and quaint, but I had class the morning that we came, so I was walking around with my teacher and not able to take pictures, which is a shame. But, if any of you decide to buy and ticket and visit me... then we'll visit Pienza for sure.

Montepulciano was not nearly as exciting and acted more like a ghost town out of an old western. 70% of the shops and caffes were closed up tight and refuse to open until more tourists arrive. But I managed a little time in the Duomo (the town's main church) and watched the believers come and pray and the tourist come and stare at the paintings and architecture and sculpture. These churches are so beautiful and need hours to really swallow and take in, but they are so cold and uninviting to me. Even when I went to mass last week, and the church was packed with little room to move, it feels very different than any church I've ever attended. I guess I'm walking away with an impression of a big, powerful God, rather than a personal, open-armed God. Both are necessary. Anyway, I digress. The churches are big here. That's all I have to say about that!

Last bit of news before I finally pull out the books. An Italian hairdresser in town apparently is a pretty big deal around here, and he gives shows (I had no idea hair dressers did shows). Anyway, he needed 6 hair models and I am one of them! He's going to dye it on Wednesday and cut it next Monday in Arezzo. But I think I won't tell you about it. I'll just post the pictures and you can see for yourself. I'm nervous, but it will be fun I think. And he seems good. I think. I hope!

OK, off to study. Here's my email again if anyone is reading but can't figure out how to comment caseynberry@gmail.com I love you all! Arrivederci - Casey

Volterra and Santa Margharita Day!

It's hard to trace my steps back to Volterra when there is so much going on right now! But I didn't tell you very much about our first field trip, so we need to back up a week...

We were herded onto a couple buses at 7:30 Saturday... in the morning... it was rough. But we did what we could and stumbled down the hill for the 2 hour bus ride through the mountains. Along the way, we passed so many small, walled towns, and I wondered why these were significant enough to stop at. But we drove on. Maybe I'll venture there another day. By the time we arrived, a few of us were green from the drive. It was a little twisty and turny, on small roads, in a huge bus. So I was ready for whichever town we were stopping at. 

But it was worth the drive. The city, though in the About Tuscany books sounded exactly the same as Cortona, had a completely different feel. It was great. I believe that more sunshine sneaked through buildings and onto the streets, both wider and better paved than Cortona. The town was bigger in general, with endless cafes (which we call bars here) and shops. But again, we were herded straight to our destination - the Etruscan museum. It was fascinating because, as I mentioned early, this stuff is old. Older than Rome. Older than anything I've ever seen. Without going into a full art history lesson, I'll just say that the cycle of art is amazing. It goes from very detailed and intense, to this fall out in history where there is hardly any art, and if there is art, it isn't very good, and then back to really good again. And I was looking at the first cycle, that the Etruscans were in. Crazy.

The museums were great and worth spending the whole day in, but for my Italian Culture class, our teacher gave us a good tour of the other sites of the city, including an ancient Roman theatre, a walking park that looks over Volterra, and one of the many amazing churches that houses some of the first terracotta pieces (Terracotta was a family name). So enjoy the pictures from Volterra. It was a happy place, though lacking in the enthusiastic Cortonese citizens that love us so dearly here in Cortona. 

Let's jump ahead to today, Friday, and jump back to Cortona. It is a big day today in the city... Santa Margharita Day! Margharita is the patron saint of the city, so everything is closed, including schools, to honor her and her church at the top of our mountain. The whole town (more or less) attended mass this morning, including yours truly. It was intense, but wonderful. I'm posting the pictures that my roommate Bobbi took of the church and festivities, so you can see for yourself how fun this morning was. We snacked on ham sandwiches and some of the treats that were handmade right infront of us. 

As for now though, I have a class in a couple hours and homework to prepare for it. I can't begin to explain how great it has been to visit the monuments and works of art that we've been studying. I'm pro-study abroad all the way, but ESPECIALLY for art history majors. There is nothing like standing infront of the alterpiece that I've studied for years. Thanks to everyone who helped me get here and for supporting me. Enjoy the pictures, and tomorrow I have another busy day with a field trip, so I'll keep you posted. Much love from Italy - Casey

Been doin' some diggin' in

Hello again. Hello from Italy. Hello from heaven.

OK, so maybe I'm in a good mood. Who can help it here? My days are passed smiling, in general disbelief.

The full swing of the program is underway. Class have started, the art studios have opened, and of course, the internet has been down. The dependency on the internet (even in beautiful Tuscany) is a bit much. I had hoped to shy away from it a little more, but I found myself desperately checking for a wireless signal.

For anything that is repeated in emails, I apologize in advance. But my days are going a little something like this: wake up, walk straight to the window and sigh, and do a little reading that I need to finish for my classes or whatever is around. Right now I'm trying to read a history of Cortona (the only one written and written well by, that's right, a former UGA student). It's a lot to take in, since Cortona is called the grandmother of Rome, predating even that ancient civilization. It's old. Breakfast is a laid out for us every morning and while we wander downtowns to grab a bite to eat, the ladies that work here sweep and mop our room and make our bed. You read that right. This is a glorified Holiday Inn. I'm already accustomed to my school life consisting between the two buildings on campus, which are extremely close. I'm so spoiled!

After classes are done (or on Tuesday, when I have no classes at all) my roommates and I mostly spend our time wandering the streets of Cortona. Each is the same and yet so different, so you can get lost in a wonderful way, but almost always emerge in one of the 2 main piazzas. You'd think that the stoniness of the streets would appear gloomy, but the brightly colored shutters, flowers, clothes strung out, and people hanging out, the gray seems to fade. Bright green, fuschia, red, and all shades of orange replace it. And this is in February! I can't wait until spring. There is a coffee shop that I like to call home (though I believe the workers mistakenly think that we are homeless because we're there everyday). It's called Nessum Dorma, which means never sleeps. While you sip your coffee or cappuccinos, they bring all these wonderful treats and breads glazed with honey. Ah. Maybe we should move there. Along with the goodies at coffee, I have found the chocolate shop that tops all chocolate shops. Kaminskys, ha ha ha. You are no match for Cocoa. New cases of chocolates every single day. Rich. Light. Dark. Creamy. Hot. Cold. Fruity. Tarty. Bitter. The list goes on and on and on! It's a wonderful place.

I'm saving my trip to Volterra and my new pal Lorenzo (don't worry - he's 70) for another blog. Hopefully tomorrow if we get to keep our internet (cross your fingers). Plus, I just don't want to overstimulate you. Until then...

Cortona, my new home

Hello all!

We've finally arrived in Cortona, and let me say... it was worth the wait, worth the exhausting journey through Rome and Florence to finally arrive. The drive through Tuscany was fabulous. Each small town had a life and a feel of its own, and many of them we'll travel to on Saturdays during the semester.

Our school and dormitory set up is at the top of a hill, but that doesn't quite describe it. Let's go more with small mountain. The vertical incline is intense, and as we were passed by the elderly women chattering, walking up the hill faster than us, we all thought this has to get easier! Luckily, I'm eating all the pasta and gelato and coffee that I want because I know that I climb our small mountain daily. We are situated on the outskirts of the city, literally beside the city's stone walls. Above our two buildings is Santa Margharita, the patron saint of the city. In WWII, the Germans placed a bomb, hidden inside the city. When it exploded, it was basically a dud because the explosion was tiny. All that was altered was a small rock, thrown all the way across the city, and landed at the statue of Sta. Margharita's feet. If the people of Cortona didn't believe that their lady saint protected them before, you better believe that they do now. They rock has been bound to the church wall, near where it landed.

Our tour of Cortona today was led by a former UGA student, who, you guessed it, fell in love with an Italian and has lived here, happily married for more than 20 years. Anyone up to flying to Italy for a wedding? You may need to prepare. - Only kidding - We'd probably get married in the states.

You can see the view from our bedroom, which opens up to the valley below. Every few minutes, someone just sighs and says, "we're so lucky." We toured the buildings today too and saw our studios and classrooms. They are wonderful, and every room opens up to our view of Tuscany below us. There is no better place, I'm convinced, to study art and its history.

I'm also uploaded a lot of picture from Florence that I didn't post earlier. The David by Michelangelo is unimaginable. First of all, its sheer size can't be matched, but then the perfection of the hands and face. These pictures are of a copy that is placed in the Piazza della Republica, because the real one is protected from the weather inside the Academia Museum.

Enjoy the pictures. I'm really disappointed with the ones that I have of Ghiberti's door on the baptistry in the middle of Florence. These were my favorite things so far, but you'll just have to use your imagination to their grandeur. Some places, the figures extend 3 inches outward. They are amazing. I'm off to dinner and one more meeting. Please send any questions too. I have skipped so much, but there is just so much to say and do. I'm excited to keep you posted, and to dig into the town. I love you all!

Viterbo, on the way to Florence

Hello again! Internet has been easier to access since I have gotten away from Rome. We left the city yesterday for Florence, but make a stop in Viterbo in between. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures because I decided to enjoy the afternoon without lugging it around. We were dropped off in the middle of Viterbo with different options of going to museums or just walking around. A few girls and I wanted specifically to see San Pelligrino, a neighborhood built around the medieval times and has been preserved like that until today. Minus the modern cars and cell phones, it looked exactly like it should. He decorations were gray and sparse, but beautiful. And after Saint Peters Cathedral and the Vatican, covered from floor to ceiling with something to look at, a medieval afternoon was a nice change of pace. We shopped (though I have been keeping my wallet closed until we arrive in Florence where the real shopping will take place) and ate a quick lunch in one of the many piazzas. There were lots of hills, so we came across great views of the city.

We climbed on the buses again to venture to Florence. (At any point in these stories, you can add the line, I was exhausted. Everywhere we go, I am pretty exhausted but we are pushing through it and really getting to see a lot.) We arrived after dark in Florence and checked into a hotel downtown. This does not even compare to the set up we had in Rome because we are pretty crammed together, but honestly the spirit of Florence makes up for it. It is much smaller and less crowded. I think that Florence is often criticized for being too Americanized, but we are appreciative after struggling so much in Rome. No pickpocket stories so far too, and in Rome there were plenty. In case you are not getting the idea, I am loving Florence. The group woke up this morning to rush into the Bargello Museum, which houses the best sculpture in Florence, and possibly Italy. We were able to see Donatellos David made out of bronze. I will post pictures after I steal from from my friends because I left my camera back in the hotel again.

Everything has been wonderful so far except the weather, which refuses to change from a gray cold. But the Florentines have been so helpful and that really helps things along. I have already found my favorite thing in Florence, but I will post on it later because you have to have pictures of it, and I dont have them yet. So you will just have to wait.

A Roman for 4 days

Let me start by saying that I am really appreciative of all your emails and prayers. I have felt so loved, leaving for Italy and while I've been here. Thank you.

Now, let's get to Roma... What can I say? How can you describe this city? I finally faced the inevitable today, writing in my journal... you just can't describe it. You can't fit it into a picture or postcard or memory. But, I will attempt to give you a small glimpse of what I've been doing and what I've seen lately.

I could write forever on the Pantheon and Campo di Fior alone. I'm so overwhelmed to even begin, but we'll start with Saint Peter's Basillica and Bernini's Piazza outside the Vatican. I walked into the Piazza and stopped immediately and dropped my jaw. Nothing compares to the vast, perfection of the space, carefully planned by Bernini. An obelisk towers over the piazza with a cross at the top, emphasized the Church's power and domination over, well, everything. Once inside Saint Peter's, the enclosed space feels just as huge as the outside square. I had to pull out my handy-dandy binoculars (thanks mom) just to appreciate the ceiling. Fortunately, we went on a Sunday when the choir walked through the Basillica singing. Everyone stopped and listened to them, echoing in the space, though mostly there is a reverent silence throughout the church.

The Colloseum at night, by far, as been my favorite sight. I stumbled upon it by accident. Can you imagine? Turning a corner and chancing upon it. The picture I've posted is already my background on my computer. Again, I just had to stop and stare, much to the annoyance of the Romans, who pass by as though it is nothing. I didn't go in, however, but I'll fly out of Rome in June, so I may come back to tour the inside.

The days have been filled, from 7 to 1 am everyday. I'm exhausted and thrilled at the same time. Between the cafe americano (because I just can't handle the espresso here) and the vino I'm running on fumes. But I'm so glad that we've had such a busy agenda because it has really pushed me to go as hard as I can and see all that I can see. And a program size of 60 has really been perfect. I've made a point to spend the days with different people, trying to remember names and get to know faces. My class schedule is bookmaking (yes, I'll be making my own journals), Italian language, Early Renaissance Art History, and an Art Education class. We'll be working in the Italian grade schools to help the children paint murals in their school and around the town of Cortona. We leave bright and early for Florence tomorrow morning, stopping along the way to visit a ceramics museum.

Rome has been great, and I'm looking forward to Florence, but I can't wait until we arrive in Cortona on the 8th. It will be much slower paced where we'll start out classes and get into a routine. And, only then will I have regular internet access, so keep the emails coming, and I'll answer them as best as I can.

I love you and can't wait to hear from you. Ciao!